Having conquered the collar, front, and facings, I now had enough courage to take on the back of this amazing coat. Since I had spent the time moving the front shoulder, I needed to apply the same change in REVERSE to the back (since it was an overlapping yoke) and also remove the yoke and making the back a single unit. A the same time, the sides needed the same modification of the front, removing the panel and converting it to a side seam. While all this was going on, I also needed to identify the venting and buttons down the lower third of the full length vent. Oh, and don’t forget the darts, either.
The hardest part of deciphering the back, was that I couldn’t find two pictures showing the back that matched each other. One had 3 darts, one had two, sometimes the button placket overlapped, sometimes it was centered, and NOWHERE did I find an image of the buttonholes on the lower vent placket for direction. So I decided I had some creative license, and as long as it closely resembled the coat and fit correctly, I should be fine. But more importantly, if Joe liked it, I was golden.
One of the concerns I had was whether the button placket should be overlapped, or should it just button together, as you already have the vent hiding a lot of what is going on. You really are only going to see flashes of the button when sitting or moving, otherwise the drape should cover the placket when just standing. Additionally, would Joe EVER close that placket up? I was going with a solid NO, as having the open vent makes the coat move beautifully and also gives a lot of room for motion. So functional but not over engineered was a better plan, so the style of the coat shines through.
I also waffled back and forth on three back darts or two, and settled on 3. I could attain more detail in the shaping, and also more panache in the coat with three, and I think two were used in commercial replicas in order to fit a wider array of customers with less shaping. I want the coat to hug Joe’s back and look bespoke, because it is.
Once I got the back finished, it was time for a break. Total time modifying, measuring, remodifying, and getting final pieces? 4 hours. Granted, I was doing this with a crazy bad respiratory cold, and had to take several breaks due to coughing fits and other miserable conditions. But it was done. All that was left was adding the extra length where necessary (a WHOPPING 20″ from the original pattern) and stitch up a mockup.
If you have never sewn a “muslin” before, the critical thing is to have really really great markings so you know how much you have deviated from the original, and decide if you need to make a second mockup, or if you can go with your minor changes and run. I recommend watching this short video on Threads, which will give you a nice primer. Also, Jamie of Denver Sews did a nice piece on making a muslin for a jacket, which you can read about here.
I cheated a bit, and only threadmarked the darts, because I figured those would need tweaking and was very concerned the coat might not have enough ease, as Joe has wide shoulders and is kind of a big guy. (This is still a concept for me, as I still see him as the scrawny geek from freshman year somewhere in the back of my mind.) The side seams, shoulders, etc and event the length I wasn’t too worried about, as I had taken really good measurements and stuck to them, checking frequently during the pattern revamp.
I did go to the trouble to actually put the pockets in the front, as I really wanted to check size, shape, and positioning, though I did not add the bag, just the flaps. In the process, I did determine I have my “spread” too far and will adjust from 1/2″ to 1/4″ for the welting process.
Here’s a slideshow of the completed mockup on a hanger, which made me very excited because it looked like something! And looked close to what I had intended! Yay!
On our usual Monday night “race nights” that occur this time of year to watch Formula 1, the rest of our merry band of geeks (sans Joe, kid responsibilities) comes over to my house to indulge in racing commentary and snacks. The snacks vary, the commentary does as well, unless you count “smartass” as a genre, in which case we rarely venture out of that genre. The guys took turns trying on the coat, Thomas didn’t want to take it off, and claimed the mock up as his. That was funny. Here’s Joe trying on his new mockup the following evening, very pleased and somewhat shocked that “It’s actually real! I’m getting a coat!” Yeah, well, we’re quite a ways out from a final product, but both Joe and I are very excited about the progress thus far.