Much ado about Welting

Now that I have the collar where I *think* it will be a good match, I need to address the inside welted pocket, while I am messing with the facing edge. Many many coat patterns have an inside welt pocket that crosses over both the facing and the lining, which makes for some acrobatics when assembling the coat. Not to mention, if you have spent a ton of time and energy getting the coat to be perfect, only to have a snafu at the welt pocket, it’s just a tragedy. I looked over several versions of the Tennant Coat, and several have the cross-over welt, but many versions have this “Solid state” welt which seems more stable and sturdy for repeated sonic screwdriver removal.

ImageNot only does it supply a nice base for the welted pocket, in an area where having a bit thicker material for support is not a bad thing, it also allows you to assemble the welt pocket BEFORE you attach the facing, so if you have difficulty or make a mistake, you are only recutting the facing piece, not starting nearly from scratch. This seemed like the best option so modifying my current “cross over” welt was necessary.

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Image Aligning the position and length of the “solid state” flap for the welt (above), and the new extension for the welt applied to the modified facing.

With the front facing now complete of modifications, I can move onto applying the new shape of the collar to the front of the coat, and also modify the front to be a side seam instead of a 3-piece front/side/back. Additionally, I need to start pondering how to get the venting and shaping on the back, but conquering the front first will give me a feel for the back.

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Lining up the front with the side, note the side panel has been folded to move the side seam.

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Getting the shape on the collar to match the shaping, taking care not to have any extra bits where they shouldn’t be

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Original front, original side, and new facing placed for moving side seam and restructuring collar shape

You’ll notice how it is important to keep everything aligned and pinned to itself to prevent slippage and deforming of the pieces, and to keep everything on grain. It is wayyyyyyy to easy to slide things around and end up with something that came from Chernobyl if you skip out on properly pinning down the pieces to each other.

I was lax in how I lined up the side panel to the front in order to get a new side seam. Part of this was so I could “fake” my seam allowance and not redraw it on the side, as my folding was stick straight and therefore my grainline was intact. The other part of this madness was to remove the shaping in this part of the coat just a bit, so I could put it BACK IN with some darting details over the pocket. So I wanted a bit wider waist than the initial shape I started with, as the shaping came from the extra panel. Make sense?

Yes, there are a LOT of moving parts going on at this particular moment, and depending on your method of modification, you may not want to make all the adjustments I am making all at the same time. You might want to redraw the collar, then address the side, then move onto shaping in several steps, using different colored pencils or markers in order to keep your changes straight. I did everything in one pass, because I like seeing the outline laid out all at once, even if it is with multiple pieces.

Even with being careful, I still forgot that I needed to move the shoulder seam as well, as the back shoulder wrapped over to the front of the coat in my original, and I wanted a top shoulder seam instead of a “yoked” version. This change required using both the front, the back, and the facing in order to determine the exact point of the new seam, how I wanted the shoulder slope, and also to make sure I didn’t forget the seam allowance. Note the new, extra piece attached to the front.

 

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The revised seam, note the overlap between the front and the back, indicating the shoulder seam. (yes, the seam allowance is off in this pic)  Also the neckline has remained the same.

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Determining the new centered shoulder seam with original front and back, and new front and back and facing

With the shoulder now correct, I can turn my attention to the outer pockets which are originally set in the seam of the front and side front. I need my pockets to be horizontal flapped, and with a bit of angle to them, as indicated in the pics I found….

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The pockets are just a bit below the waistline, by only about an inch or so, and the angle is not that dramatic. The pocket flap stops JUST BEFORE the side seam by an inch or so, and the flaps have a rounded “nose” with a pointed tail. So redesigning the pocket flaps is necessary as well.

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I have added small darts into the side for shaping, but may have to revisit this based on the hang and armhole fit later. I did double check the sleeve to armhole measurement and it should work.

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Note the shape of the pocket flap matches our Tennant coat, and I had to create the bag, since our previous pocket had a side seam entry and bag.

The long “almond” dart that is vertically placed was a snap to figure, as it is right under the buttons, and runs the length of the button rail. I determined the amount of width in the dart by finding the difference between my side and front when I added the back, and applying it to the dart to be “removed” to regain the shaping from the straight side seam.

A lot of this I applied on the fly, as I am intending to make a mockup and have Joe wear it to iron out any wrinkles in time (wow, triple play? At least a double pun there!). So at this point, I think I have the front knocked out. The back…well, will be a bit more interesting, as I have to add the venting up the ENTIRE back of the coat, along with buttons and facings to match.

Stay tuned sportsfans!

 

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